Recycling & Graywater in Seattle

Since Earth Day 1970, individual consciousness has driven slow change to increase recycling programs within communities across the country. Still today, we have a reputation as the #1 trash-producing country in the world [2] at 4.4 pounds per person [1]. Unfortunately our per capita production of trash has remained above 4 pounds since 1990 [1]. At the same time, at least our per capita rate has been slowly declining since 2000 [1]. According to the EPA, in the United States in 2014, 258 million tons of municipal solid waste (MSW) was generated, and 89 of that was recycled or composted (34.6%) [1]. Only 1/3! Simultaneously, the percent of recycled and composted materials has steadily increased since 1990 (from 16%) -- we must remember sustainable change is slow.

Of the 258 million tons of MSW, our highest contributors are paper and paperboard (26%) and food/yard waste (28.2%) [1]. To give you a visual: Americans throw away enough office paper each year to build a 12 foot high wall from Seattle to NY (a new wall every year) [2]. Of the 136 tons put in landfills and 33 tons combusted-- the highest percent is food (21%) [1]. In fact, almost half of the food in the U.S. goes to waste - approximately 3,000 pounds per second [2]. Can you believe this figure? What an incredible problem to try and wrap your brain around. We must ask, for what end is so much paper being generated (and the cutting down of trees) and imagine how much space would be saved in landfills (and CO2 emissions) if every home could properly maintain a compost pile. The separate issue of so much food waste in a world of undernourished and starving people is a whole other conversation...

This is painful for me to consider, and perhaps is for you too. To remain optimistic, we can celebrate our successes. The 34.6% of MSW diverted from combustion or landfill in 2014, this saved us 181 million metric tons of carbon dioxide equivalent emissions [1]. This means if we keep investing in recycling technology and programs we can also continue to reduce CO2 emissions. In places like Seattle, we have strong recycling programs that most people participate in. It's true that Seattle does a good job of recycling unconventional items -such as cooking oil- while educating the public through their website and annual mailings. We also have groups like Buy Nothing on Facebook where people can donate unwanted items, that their neighbors might treasure. Some people might argue we're already doing a great job in Seattle--it's other parts of the country we need to worry about--which we cannot control, so this conversation is somewhat unnecessary. 

This is where I currently live; am I doing all I can to conserve it's resources? Well, I am not maintaining my own compost pile, nor am I actively recycling water. What is stopping me? Is it because 'I don't have to'?

The bigger picture is to address conservation--and to ask yourself the question, could you call yourself a conservationist? Also, what does it mean to be a conservationist in today's world? I believe to be a conservationist in our area means both reducing our consumption and reducing pollution, and regularly assessing our individual habits. Also not settling for what seems to be good enough, because in our culture we are used to being comfortable and have extreme notions of what resources are "necessary". On an individual level, asking the question, "Do I have more than I need, and what do I really need?" is probably not something we do enough of. On a societal level, fortunately Seattle seems to be doing "good enough": we have great programs to address conservation and tackle some of our local issues, including RainWise, Adopt-A-Drain, Trees for Neighborhoods, King Conservation District grants, green stormwater infrastructure projects, and on an administrative level we are even discussing Climate Change.

With strong systems already in place, we can begin to ask how we might improve inefficiencies (in addition to making changes on an individual level). One obvious question for our area is water conservation, which we possibly don't think about because we are surrounded by it. I think about this every time I am drinking tap water and smell chlorine. We haven't had to face shortages very often (except the Summer of 2016) however that is something that will likely shift in the future with climate change. So we need to begin to ask the questions now. Our two major watersheds, Tolt and Cedar, supply water for 1.4 million people in Seattle, through 18,000 miles of pipeline [3]. Although on their website, Seattle Public Utilities suggest ways to "Reduce Water Use", nowhere do they talk about graywater. It's fascinating that as progressive as Seattle is, even on their sister website savingwater.org, there is no specific mention of graywater. Other areas in the country that are facing dramatic water shortages (like California) might provide case studies (like the City of Berkeley) to show how water recycling programs can be institutionalized.

Sweet ass DIY Compost Toilet on a farm I visited recently

Well we don't have to wait for the city to catch up, yet DIY Graywater is not something we do in our household (except from the dehumidifier-every time it fills up, my roommate dumps it somewhere in the garden). Again I will suggest that we have been too relaxed about this particular topic because we haven't "needed" to recycle water. How long will our abundance last? How long will it take to fund and install graywater systems on a city-wide scale once shortages  become more commonplace? As citizens of Seattle, we can be more pro-active pushing legislators to create programs or regulations to utilize graywater technology. All we really need to do is turn to resources like the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Washington State Department of Health to learn more about recycling water and how to make it safe, as well as how to educate lawmakers. The City clearly projects future climate changes: sea-level rise (drainage and flooding problems), extreme precipitation (again drainage and flooding problems), extreme heat (drought and water resource allocation problems), and hydrology changes in general [4]. If they are truly concerned about these future scenarios, they will need to look at solutions that include graywater.

For more information about the possibility of graywater systems in Seattle, check out Seattle Graywater Initiative, where you can contact Patrick Loderhose and get his perspective on the best way to nudge Seattle along. And for someone like me, who needs to put their talk to action, I  need to reflect on DIY solutions I can do in my own home now, that my roommates will tolerate.

I still am not sure how to address my own lazy conservationist tendencies. I've heard the saying "Necessity is the Mother of Invention"," but with an awareness of a changing climate, and that I can do better, I need to do the work of shifting my patterns. I'm not sure what it will take but it's good for me to admit out loud. A possible starting point.


Works Cited

[1] "Advancing Sustainable Materials Management: Facts and Figures." U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Web. November 19, 2017. https://www.epa.gov/smm/advancing-sustainable-materials-management-facts-and-figures
[2] "General Recycling Facts." Recycle Across America. Web. November 19, 2017. http://www.recycleacrossamerica.org/recycling-facts
[3] "Water." Seattle Public Utilities. Web. November 26, 2017. https://www.seattle.gov/util/MyServices/Water/index.htm
[4] "Projected Climate Changes." Seattle Public Utilities. Web. November 26, 2017. https://www.seattle.gov/util/EnvironmentConservation/ClimateChangeProgram/ProjectedChanges/index.htm

Tim's Fig Tree Guild!

Why fig? Well I wanted to place a deciduous tree in Tim's yard to add a tree layer, and help shade in the summer. An edible, hardy plant with a unique pollination story seemed perfect. Over time I wish to develop a water-wise fig guild, which means plants adapted to a Mediterranean climate, with minimal summer irrigation needs. I already have some of these types of plants in the yard, which I might be able to propagate from: borage, cardoon, lavender, lupine, oregano, rosemary, sage, thyme and yarrow. If Tim is up for it, we can introduce more from this category.

This summer I attended an "Introduction to Forest Forests" class at the Community Orchard of West Seattle, taught by two permaculture instructors. They provided handouts, including one about developing fruit tree guilds. Using this handout, and also Gaia's Garden I wanted to feature some of the plants in my garden right now, that can serve in the role of Fig Tree Guild. In the true spirit of permaculture, I am starting with what I already have on the land: blueberry, cardoon, cilantro, daffodil, echinacaea, garlic, marigold, oregano, strawberry, tomato, yarrow, and of course - the fig. If you check out the works cited down below, make sure to visit [#1] where you will find more information about fig guilds.

Ficus carica 'Olympian' (MORACEAE)
Common Fig.

Deciduous small tree up to 30 feet, can be single or multi-stemmed, prone to suckering [1]. Although considered a Mediterranean plant, several cultivars are hardy to Zone 5 [1]. The leaf is alternate, simple, lobed, with venation that is palmate-pinnate. Flowers are monoecious and self-fertile [3], and have a very unique story: flowers are technically an inflorescence surrounded by a fleshy covering we know as the fig fruit. They are pollinated by female wasps (Agaonidae) that enter at the base of the fig, pollinate, then die! Eggs laid inside the fig hatch; the males mate with females, and wingless, eventually die inside the fig too [2]! The females are able to emerge, and pollen-loaded, go off to pollinate a new fig [2]! The mature fruits mostly contain carbohydrates, but also contain small amounts of protein and fat, calcium, phosphorus, iron, sodium, potassium, Vitamin A, C, B1, B2 and B3 [3]. The plant can also serve medicinally: a decoction of the leaves can be used as a stomachic [3]. The latex in the stems can be analgesic to insect/bee stings [3]! The fruit is mildly laxative, demulcent and digestive, and is taken in the form of a syrup [3]. The fig is said to have anti-cancer properties too [3]. This plant is truly special!

Mulch Makers

Cynara cardunculus (ASTERACEAE)
Cardoon.

Herbaceous perennial, 3' x 6', upright, columnar, arching in a vase-shaped frame, showy; hardy to Zone 7 [4]. The leaves are large, simple, boldly jagged, lobed, deeply cut, spined with fine hairs, and silver-gray [4] -- and make a great mulch! The stem is edible (celery-like stalk), and reportedly tastes better before flowering / after blanching (to remove bitterness) [5]. The roots, too, can be cooked like parsnips (only if you have plants to spare!) [5].The flowers are hermaphrodite; pollinated by bees and wasps [5]. They are also edible, with a milder flavor compared to globe artichoke. The flowers are gorgeous! Purple-violet, large, globose, spined, and technically called a pseudanthium - an inflorescence of thousands of flowers grouped together on one flower structure. The flowers will produce one seed per "cypsela", that are very small, so more appropriate for the birds [6]. If you don't want to eat them, however, the dried flowers can be used as a rennet substitute [5]! Medicinally, the plant contains "cynarin", a bitter, which improves liver and digestive function, or treats progressive diseases like hepatitis, arterioschlerosis and early stages of diabetes [5]. At a recent workshop I attended about bitters at the Dandelion Seed Conference, I was told Cynara is considered safe for regular use as a bitter.

Nutrient Accumulators

Achillea millefolium (ASTERACEAE)
Yarrow.

A beautiful, upright -slightly weedy- perennial that is hardy to Zone 2 [7]. Leaves are soft, feathery, bipinnate-tripinnate, arranged spirally on the stem. Being rhizomatous, it can make a pleasant groundcover (if the flower stalks are cut back regularly). It also has a deep taproot that is known for accumulating nutrients from sub soil layers [8] -- if then turned into mulch or compost. The flowers are a stunning inflorescence of bracts, as well as ray and disk flowers, creating a flat-topped structure also called a " ". They are hermaphrodite, are pollinated by insects and also attract wildlife [7]. The flowers eventually produce cypselae that ripen in late summer [7]. Yarrow is highly adored for it's medicinal properties, and is popular for it's ancient use of treating wounded soldiers, even during the American Civil War [9]. It is used today for treating wounds, stopping blood flow, treating colds, menstrual pain and kidney disease [7]. Yarrow also contains the anti-inflammatory azulene [7]. From a permaculture standpoint, this plant can fit into many categories because it is also aromatic (like chrysanthemum), repels pests (like beetles, ants and flies [7]) and attracts predators -- therefore it is highly functional -- if properly managed. It is one of my favorite flowers and herbal medicines!

Soil Fumigants/Aromatics

Calendula officinalis (ASTERACEAE)
Pot Marigold.

Annual, herb, hardy to Zone 2, upright, self-seeding, and can get a little weedy. The leaf type varies among cultivars: are simple, alternate, hairy, and can be lanceolate with pinnate venation, or oblong-obovate, or oddly-pinnate (pictured above) with entire or dentate margins. The flowers are cheery bright yellow to deep orange ray & disk single flowerheads with single or double petals [12]. They are monoecious, are pollinated by bees, and attract wildlife [13]. Marigolds will produce an abundance of "achenes", and have a short life cycle. For edibility, the leaves are actually used as salad greens--however they left a tingling sensation in my own mouth--they are considered rich in vitamins and minerals like dandelion leaves [13]. The seeds contain up to 37% protein and 46% oil [13] and calendula seed oil is a common product available in herbal medicine stores. Calendula is a well loved medicinal plant, especially when applied externally for skin conditions such as wounds, burns and varicose veins [13] therefore it is a common ingredient in lotions and creams you can buy from the store. It can also be taken internally (flower petals) as an antiseptic, treating conditions such as chronic infection and for toning the circulatory system [13]. In the "soil fumigant" category, marigolds function as an insect deterrent and are known for reducing eelworm populations [13]. As an aromatic, marigolds attract hoverflies, bees, and butterflies [13]. They also attract gardeners like me who otherwise might feel unmotivated to do weeding!

Origanum vulgare (LAMIACEAE)
Pot Oregano.

Herbaceous perennial, upright, sometimes rhizometous, horizontal and spreading, hardy to Zone 4 [14]. Being in the mint family, it has square stems; the leaves are arranged opposite, rounded-ovate, with margins entire or slightly toothed [14]. The flowers are also characteristic of the mint family with bilateral symmetry, 5 petals fused into a cup, two-lipped, pink-purple-white, with four (4) stamens and four (4) purple bracts, that bloom in corymb-like spikelets [14]. The flowers are hermaphrodite, pollinated by bees, butterflies and moths, and attract wildlife [15]. If left to self-seed, oregano produces achenes [14]. An excellent culinary herb, oregano contains a bit of fat and protein, and mostly carbohydrate [15]. It contains the minerals calcium, phosphorus, iron, potassium, also an unusually high amount of magnesium and a bit of zinc [15]. For vitamins it contains a high amount of Vitamin A, and a bit of B3 [15]. Medicinally, Oregano Oil has a great reputation for being antiseptic, diaphoretic, expectorant and so it is taken for colds and flu [15]. It's antiseptic qualities are attributed to the active constituent thymol [15]. In the garden oregano smells delightful, repels pests and as a groundcover can be multi-functional [15]. I've never tried making my own essential oil but I definitely use it if I am starting to feel a bit under the weather, as a preventative tool.

Solanum lycopersicum (SOLANACEAE)
Tomato.

Dicot, annual in temperate climates, vines with pubescent stems, sprawling (unless staked), especially if it's an "indeterminate" variety" (vs. determinate which is bushy) [16]. Leaves are compound, oddly pinnate, with 5-9 leaflets, and the flowers are yellow cymes, which are pollinated by insects [16]. The fruits are true berries (thin skin and pericarp), and seeds can be saved by a simple fermentation and drying process [16]. Tomatoes are an obvious culinary delight, although some people have an allergy to nightshades (their family). Instead I will focus on their medicinal qualities. Sliced fruits are considered an easy First Aid treatment on burns [16] (squash and rub a tomato on yourself, that sounds fun). Their main active ingredient is Lycopene, which supports heart and prostate health [16]. That is probably nice news for men! Oil obtained from the seed can be used in soap making [16]. Which may explain why it can be used as an insecticide, effective against ants, yet is also harmful to beneficials and humans [16]. As a growing plant it can function as a fumigant, and is said to be a companion to asaparagus, parsley, brassicas (mixed opinion), nettles and gooseberries [16]. Even though I am not a huge fan of eating tomatoes myself, I think they will fit in quite nicely to the Fig Guild -- especially if I install nettles and gooseberries!

Attract Predators/Beneficials

Coriandrum sativum (APIACEAE)
Cilantro/Coriander.

Herbaceous, annual, hardy to Zone 2 grows in a basal clump until it goes to seed and the flower stalks are several feet high, upright [24]. Leaves are delicate, aromatic, broadly-lobed becoming more feathery up the flower stem [24]. White or pale pink umbel flowers are very attractive to pollinators including swallowtail butterflies [24]. The flowers are hermaphrodite and the plant is self-fertile [25]. Each flower eventually produces a schizocarp, which is the very popular culinary spice, coriander! The seed is reportedly more flavorful when allowed to fully cure [25]. The seed can also yield an essential oil and is used in perfumery and soap making -- because it is said to be an aphrodisiac [25]. Medicinally, the seeds especially are carminative and digestive -- the raw seeds can be chewed to stimulate gastric juices, yet too many can have a narcotic effect [25]. It apparently freshens the breath though, and is a good follow-up to eating raw garlic [25]!  In the garden, essential oil can be used in spray formulations, and coriander is fungicidal and bactericidal, especially if used on red spider mites and woolly aphids [25]. The growing plant is said to repel aphids and carrot root fly [25], so this plant can also be placed in the soil fumigant/aromatic category. Personally, cilantro is probably my favorite fresh kitchen herb; I love to add it to salads, and I love the soft touch of the leaves. However, apparently the leaves should not be eaten in large quantities due to higher levels of oxalic acid (0.012%) [25]. Everything in moderation of course; this plant seems like a good metaphor for that idea. 

Echinacea purpurea (ASTERACEAE)
Coneflower.

Herbaceous perennial, hardy to Zone 3, leaves form a basal clump, the flowers are upright and a few feet tall [26]. Leaves are simple, alternate, ovate-lanceolate, dark green with red-tinged petioles [27]. Flowers are solitary, ray and disk, with 50-300 disk flowers [27], and called "cone-shaped" because the petals reflex downward as they are opening. They are hermaphrodite and pollinated by insects [28]. If the spent flower heads are not removed they provide seeds for overwintering birds like goldfinches [26]. The fruits, like in other members of ASTERACEAE, are achene-like "cypsela", which only produces one seed. Not only are they excellent for the garden, classically beautiful and attracting wildlife, they also provide a powerful medicine. It is considered one of the most effective detoxicants of the circulatory, lymphatic and respiratory systems - as an antiseptic [28]. In Western Herbalism it is commonly taken before the onset of an illness to strengthen the immune system [28]. It is also used topically to treat sores, wounds and burns because of cortisone-like and antibacterial active ingredients [28]. Traditionally the plant was used to treat insect and snakebites [28]. The root, harvested in autumn is considered adaptogen, antiseptic, depurative and diaphoretic [28]. When I have worked with this plant I tinctured the root; I save it for emergency use when I am starting to get sick -- and I have found it effective (combined with rest, yoga, breathing exercises, bathing, etc.) This is definitely not a plant to take on an ongoing basis.

Vaccinium angustifolium (ERICACEAE)
Lowbush Blueberry.

Perennial, deciduous, rhizometous, woody small shrub, hardy to Zone 2 [29]. The leaves are simple, alternate, with serrated margins and produce beautiful fall color (as seed in the photo!) [30]. In my own garden I have four different varieties and have enjoyed watching their different abscission patterns. The flowers are white, bell-shaped and small, hermaphrodite, and are pollinated by insects [29]. The require bees for pollination [30], so keep your garden organic! The berry is blue 😂, fleshy and technically a true berry (however unlike tomato, requires cold stratification to propagate) [30]. Berries are highly attractive to wildlife so it's a good idea to share [30].  They are the perfect blend of sweet and astringent, excellent fresh, dried or in preserves. The berries have been shown to protect against heart disease and cancer, and promote healthy blood pressure [31]. They contain good levels of Vitamins C, A, K and B6, antioxidants, iron, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, zinc, and fiber [31]. Blueberry leaves have been used medicinally as a tea, to serve as a blood purifier, and as a tonic post miscarriage or to induce labor [29]. Blueberries are probably my favorite fruit; one day I would like to propagate hundreds of plants in a woodland setting.

Fortress

Allium sativum (ALLIACEAE)
Garlic.

Annual bulb, monocot, upright, herbaceous, hardy to Zone 4 [10]. The leaves are linear, grass-like and aromatic, up to 2' [10]. There are two varieties: hardneck and softneck, and only the hardneck produce flower stalks (called a scape) [10]. The scapes produce an "umbel" of pink-white flowers [10], are hermaphrodite and pollinated by bees and insects [11]. Not all garlic plants will produce "true seed", !!!!Not only is the bulb edible, but also the leaves (try them in a stir fry) and the scape (flower stalk and bud). Nutritionally, garlic contains mostly carbohydrate and a bit of protein, as well as calcium, phosphorus, iron, sodium, potassium, and vitamins B1-3. Garlic may be one of the most widely accepted herbal medicines there is, for it's anticancer, antimicrobial and antiseptic qualities. For example it is used to treat Candida, vaginitis, ringworm, lead poisoning, and arterioschlerosis [11]. In the garden it is also used as an insecticide (a hot tea combined with soap) which I haven't tried yet myself [11]. An extract made with essential oil can be used as a fungicide against blight and other fungal diseases on tomatoes and potatoes [11]. The growing plant is said to repel insects, rabbits and voles [11]! For all of these reasons I place it in the fortress category; I have mostly planted cloves of softneck in Tim's yard -- which reportedly store better -- however in my case it's all I had.

Narcissus (group) (AMARYLLIDACEAE)
Daffodil.

Herbaceous perennial bulb, monocot, hardy to Zone 4, upright habit with pendulous flower. Leaves are narrow, linear, grass-like. The flowers (given to me by my stepmother) are probably from Division I: Trumpet Narcissus. They are hermaphrodite [21], yellow, solitary, atop a scape, and contain a six-lobed corolla and trumpet-shaped corona [20]. Although most gardeners propagate vegetatively from the bulb, you can grow daffodil from seed, which comes from the "fruit" capsule, which dehiscs [22]. Although all parts of the plant are considered poisonous, the bulb has a medicinal history [21]. The whole plant is considered astringent and emetic (inducing vomiting) [21]. The bulb is narcotic and depresses the nervous system, and has been used to treat epilepsy [21]. However you may not want to mess around with that yourself! I am more interested in it's reputed function in the garden to ward off grass (Gaia's Garden). Like garlic, they contain alkaloids thought to suppress grass as well as thwart grazers [23]. They also collect arsenic, so could possibly be used to remediate toxic soils [23]. I do wonder how thickly they must be planted to achieve such a function, and I don't currently have many. 

Groundcover

Fragaria vesca 'Semperflorens' (ROSACEAE)
Alpine Strawberry.

Perennial evergreen groundcover, hardy to Zone 4, freely stoloniferous.  Leaves are compound, alternate, trifoliate, toothed margins, deep green, with pinnate venation [18]. Flowers are ray and disk, white with yellow centers, five-petaled, from May to November [17]. They are hermaphrodite, and are pollinated by bees, flies, butterflies and moths [17]. Eventually the flower produces a fleshy berry, which technically is not a true berry -- because strawberry flowers have more than one ovary [19]. They are aggregate fruits with multiple achenes [19]. The fruits are considered some of the best tasting for garden varieties [17] -- so how perfect that they are 'everbearing'! Not only are the fruits edible but also the leaves, which can be added to salads or used for tea [17]. Medicinally, the leaves especially are considered astringent, diuretic, laxative and tonic [17].  Strawberry leaf tea is taken as a blood tonic, and can be used as a wash for sunburns [17]. Like tomatoes, sliced strawberries can also be applied to sunburns, as well as to teeth to remove stains [17]! The fruits contain salicylic acid which benefits liver and kidney problems [17]. Similarly, the roots, harvested in autumn, are considered astringent and diuretic [17]. In my own garden, I don't plan to do much with strawberry medicine (I also tend to be a bit lazy harvesting fruits) but I hope they will provide a nice thick groundcover in little time. 

Works Cited

[1] Alfrey, Paul. "Dig the Fig." Permaculture Research Insitute. Sep 30, 2016. Web. Nov 2, 2017. https://permaculturenews.org/2016/09/30/dig-fig-essential-guide-need-know-figs-ficus-carica/
[2] Moisset, Beatriz. "Fig Wasps." USDA Forest Service. Web. Nov 2, 2017. https://www.fs.fed.us/wildflowers/pollinators/pollinator-of-the-month/fig_wasp.shtml
[3] L. "Ficus carica." Plants for a Future. Web. Nov 2, 2017. http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Ficus+carica
[4] "Cynara cardunculus." Missouri Botanical Garden. Web. Nov 2, 2017. http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=e874
[5] L. "Cynara cardunculus." Plants for a Future. Web. Nov 2, 2017. http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Cynara+cardunculus
[6] "Artichoke - Fruit or Vegetable?" The Phytophactor. Feb 21, 2008. Web. Nov 2, 2017. http://phytophactor.fieldofscience.com/2008/02/artichoke-fruit-or-vegetable.html
[7] L. "Achillea millefolium." Plants for a Future. Web. Nov 2, 2017. http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Achillea+millefolium
[8] Amy. "5 Reasons to Grow Yarrow In Your Garden." Tenth Acre Farm. Web. Nov 2, 2017. https://www.tenthacrefarm.com/2015/05/5-reasons-to-grow-yarrow/
[9] Cameroon, Mary. "Yarrow: The Warrior's Herb of Ancient Times." Natural News Blogs. May 6, 2016. Web. Nov 3, 2017. https://www.naturalnewsblogs.com/yarrow-warriors-herb-ancient-times/
[10] "Allium sativum." Missouri Botanical Garden. Web. Nov 3, 2017. http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=b403
[11] L. "Allium sativum." Plants for a Future. Web. Nov 3, 2017. http://www.pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?latinname=Allium+sativum
[12] "Calendula officinalis." Missouri Botanical Garden. Web. Nov 4, 2017. http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=277409&isprofile=0&
[13] L. "Calendula officinalis." Plants for a Future. Web. Nov 4, 2017. http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Calendula+officinalis
[14] "Origanum vulgare." Missouri Botanical Garden. Web. Nov 5, 2017. http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=281411&isprofile=0&
[15] L. "Origanum vulgare." Plants for a Future. Web. Nov 5, 2017. http://www.pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?latinname=origanum+vulgare
[16] L. "Solanum lycopersicum." Plants for a Future. Web. Nov 7, 2017. http://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Solanum+lycopersicum
[17] L. "Fragaria vesca 'Semperflorens'." Plants for a Future. Web. Nov 8, 2017. http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Fragaria+vesca+%27Semperflorens%27
[18] "Fragaria vesca." Go Botany. Web. Nov 8, 2017. https://gobotany.newenglandwild.org/species/fragaria/vesca/
[19] Geggel, Laura. "Why Are Bananas Berries, But Strawberries Aren't?" Live Science. Jan 12, 2017. Web. Nov 8, 2017. https://www.livescience.com/57477-why-are-bananas-considered-berries.html
[20] "Narcissus (group)."Missouri Botanical Garden. Web. Nov 8, 2017. http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=a465
[21] L. "Narcissus pseudonarcissus." Plants for a Future. Web. Nov 8, 2017. http://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Narcissus+pseudonarcissus
[22] "Narcissus poeticus." Go Botany. Web. Nov 8, 2017. https://gobotany.newenglandwild.org/species/narcissus/poeticus/
[23] "Daffodil functions." Permies Permaculture Forum. Web. Nov 8, 2017. https://permies.com/t/1146/Daffodil-functions
[24] "Coriandrum sativum." Missouri Botanical Garden. Web. Nov 9, 2017. http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=275984
[25] L. "Coriandrum sativum." Plants for a Future. Web. Nov 9, 2017. http://pfaf.org/User/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Coriandrum+sativum
[26] "Echinacea purpurea." Missouri Botanical Garden. Web. Nov 9, 2017. http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=c580
[27] Moench, L. "Echinacea purpurea." Go Botany. Web. Nov 9, 2017. https://gobotany.newenglandwild.org/species/echinacea/purpurea/
[28] Moench, L. "Echinacea purpurea." Plants for a Future. Web. Nov 9, 2017. http://pfaf.org/User/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Echinacea+purpurea
[29] Aiton. "Vaccinium angustifolium." Plants for a Future. Web. Nov 9, 2017. http://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Vaccinium+angustifolium
[30] Ait. "Vaccinium angustifolium." Go Botany. Web. Nov 9, 2017. https://gobotany.newenglandwild.org/species/vaccinium/angustifolium/
[31] Gill, Karen Richardson. "Blueberries: Health Benefits, Facts and Research." Medical News Today. Sep 5, 2017. Web. Nov 9,  2017. https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/287710.php

Permaculture for Tim!

Now that I have lived in Tim's home for about a year, I am trying to apply permaculture principles to a larger site design. I've had a chance to observe sun and wind patterns and feel a tiny bit more confident about what is possible for Tim's property. The easiest will be the front yard garden, which I will call Zone 1. In October 2016, we started gardening in the front yard - tilling up the lawn, laying down manure and straw, and clearing out blackberry roots (I wish I had a photo from "Before"!). Here is a photo from last winter:

Over  the past year I put in edibles & ornamental perennials (donated), annuals and one fig tree. There are power lines overhead most of the yard so I had to place it carefully. Also, I tried to choose plants according to Tim's taste, and always checked in beforehand. He gave me a lot of freedom. It's amazing how after a little soil building, and making do with many donated plants and seeds, the front yard became this:

So here is our starting point for thinking about a larger permaculture design for the property. While considering Tim's personality and likely maintenance habits and goals, it's important to honor all the human elements: the house/deck, fire pit, batting cage, mother-in-law apartment and power lines -- all Zone 0. Designing sensible access around all of these will be critical, and minimizing high maintenance areas means all cultivated areas in the front yard -including just outside the fence and a small street garden- will be Zone 1. Everything else will be Zone 2. Here is a rough map (based on Google Earth image):

In this map I tried to clearly mark all the human elements (Zone 0: purple) and pathways. I wanted to place all cultivated areas into Zone 1 (green) to keep them under the scope of ongoing maintenance. They need to be properly cared for before more can be introduced; the greatest challenge will be keeping invasive weeds under control in most of Zone 2 (white). For example the south facing fence line of Tim's property has a terrible English Ivy problem, and the north-west facing portions of Zone 2 have a Himalayan blackberry battle. Zone 2 also contains new plantings like elderberry, bay tree, western red cedar and limber pine that will need a little bit of maintenance and a watchful eye. Caring for Zone 2 is essentially invasive weed management so that new plantings will be okay.

Now just for fun, here is the map again, this time with sectors depicted (sectors are external energies that move through land and influence how things grow, like wind and sun). I was recently introduced to a neat resource that helps you calculate the angles of sun where you live. In my first year of living here I wasn't sure what to expect and thought I may be living in a part-sun valley, so I didn't grow many heat-loving plants. I eventually observed that a portion of the yard receives full sun. To be honest I'm still not sure how to interpret the sun angles in this map, except to notice that the sun covers more of an area in the summer. Depicted here are the angles of summer sun (red) and winter sun (blue). I also included a fire sector around the fire put, thinking that plants shouldn't be placed around there for the sake of bonfires. I wasn't sure how to depict wind, though. I also added lines depicting where power lines go (unfortunately they're all basically in the front yard).

Now, I want to discuss the Zone 1 elements more in depth - they are all within the front yard fence line and the first thing people see when they visit the home. (Note: there is a small street-level garden, which should really be placed in Zone 2 because of it's proximity to the house, however, since it is already cultivated I will consider it in Zone 1.)

Zone 1: raised bed of greens; berry border; Fig Tree Guild, herb border

Raised Bed O' Greens

Characteristics: accessible to kitchen and close to spigot, consumed daily, high value

Needs: Nutrition, water, sun, hygiene, pest/disease management

Products: daily food for humans and insects, soil stabilization, beauty, multiple levels for growing plants in symbiosis (particularly the kale along the fence line)

Comments: the kale along the fence is starting to get tall, so I sowed cover crop (white clover) underneath for overwintering, and next spring other greens can be sown underneath. In the densely planted square bed, if we get many cold nights we might lose some of them (the mustard is getting stressed) but there's a great chance it will overwinter and stabilize the soil. In the spring we can cut much of it down, add some top soil and grow something else from another family. Before it was greens it was garlic. I'll have to see what Tim would enjoy there. 

Berry Border

Characteristics: several kinds of berries: raspberries, goji berries, strawberries, blueberry; high value perennials, food for humans and animals, high shrub and groundcover, in full sun year round, must compete with invasive himalayan blackberry.

Needs: acidic soil, lots of sun and water for berry production, nutrition, weed management, pruning

Products: delicious berries, seasonal interest (flowers and fall color), long term value, soil stabilization

Comments: the plants are all still babies and have many weeds to compete with, which luckily are all herbacious. Hopefully their roots will establish over the fall/winter so they will push a lot of new growth in the spring. The soil is more sandy in this area of the yard and suffers from some erosion, so continuing to add good top soil will be important. It's a big mystery as to how they will look in their second year!

Fig Tree Guild (Ficus carica 'Olympian')

Characteristics: baby fig tree planted, and some of the guild members are already present, as the tree gets larger with each passing year more members will be able to be added in. My dream is to have the whole front yard be a Fig Tree Guild.

Needs: good soil, sun, water, companion plants, weed management, training/pruning (not yet)

Products: summer shade, mulch, beauty, food, and it will be the one and only tree in the yard!

Comments: although figs grow faster than many fruit trees, it will be awhile before the guild really takes shape. A wonderful exercise in patience and also dedication. If we can set up the right environment from the get go, hopefully it will make it through it's first winter and be healthy! Stay tuned as more of this story unfolds with passing time.

Herb Border

Characteristics: In full sun, faster draining soil then inside the fence line; mostly perennial herbs and flowers that are drought tolerant; pleasing to the senses for pollinators and visitors, the first thing people see when they arrive! 

Needs: Pruning/ plant separation, nutrition, occasional summer irrigation

Products: Beauty, medicines, good smells, culinary purposes, gifts for friends and family

This is the photo from last year when it was first installed. Now below you an see what it looks like a year later!

Comments: this is my favorite area of the garden. There are so many textures, colors and smells all coexisting together. I am excited to see how all the plants evolve together in time. Also, I am hoping with the installation of vines and as the plants mature, the fence line will be obscured. 

In conclusion, I want to share my intentions for Year 2 on Tim's property. First of all, I wish to get the invasive weeds under control, and second, to appropriately maintain all the cultivated areas, while especially developing The Fig Guild. I am also not very clear on how wind moves through the property so will need to pay more attention to that too. Once Zone 2 is cleaned up and cleared out I can start thinking about cultivating other areas. Also -- given that the Fig is considered a Mediterranean plant, and because I believe I spent too much time/resources this past summer watering the garden, it would be best to transition the entire property toward more Mediterranean plants with minimal summer irrigation needs. Stay tuned!

Permaculture Ethics: Dealing With Consumption

I am a human being therefore it's highly possible that I cause pollution through my lifestyle. This is not something I want to admit or face because I would rather think of myself as good or wholesome, someone who is mitigating the pollution of my fellow species. But if I don't examine that in myself than I risk perpetuating toxic patterns. I remember going through this process before during a breakup, where suddenly all my shortcomings reared their ugly heads laughing at me and pointing fingers. Not the most fun. But I'm probably better for it now, having made some changes, and coming through to the other side.

I am trying to develop more awareness around the ways I cause pollution - materially, energetically, spiritually and so forth. Not to justify my actions, hopefully, because I'm sure I'll want to negotiate the necessity of my polluting habits in order to keep my comforts. Pollution is probably a byproduct of my consumption habits.

At the NW Permaculture Convergence recently, I attended a workshop given by Jessi Bloom, author of Practical Permaculture, and I don't remember what she specifically said, but a nagging question came into my mind, "Do I consume more than I produce?". This workshop followed on the heels of a workshop given by Alexia Allen of Hawthorn Farm - who shared her family's year-long experiment of only "consuming" what they themselves had grown, or otherwise bartered from people they knew. She talked about tapping sugar maples, for example, in order to have a sweetener.

The truth is I currently produce very little. I have a full front yard where I've grown annuals like greens, garlic, potatoes, herbs and tomatoes - but I consume far beyond that. As a gardener, often times of ornamentals, I could say that I produce beauty. I also produce music, which I would like to think benefits others. But I did not produce the instruments I play. I enjoy producing my own herbal medicines, which I have either wildcrafted or purchased from bulk herb stores. Still I do not know exactly where those plants were harvested. It is hard to wrap my head around exactly what I am producing in this world. I feel out of balance, and therefore causing pollution.

Now fortunately my intentions to reduce waste, packaging, transportation costs, etc-for many years now-have caused my consumption to be lower than the average American. Yet that's not really saying much. Especially knowing that millions of people around the world are living on much less than I am (and are probably better off). In the very least, I would like to be able to say I produce more than I consume. If that's really true, than I have some changes to make.

Of course this "ideal" cannot just happen overnight. I will slowly need to increase production while decreasing consumption. I think both are possible. 

Perhaps in order to face my consumption patterns I can admit some of my most foul habits:

• Drinking coffee. Yes there's direct trade, and yes those beans come from far away. Also, Coffee is a metaphor for any exotic foods I purchase, perhaps from over 100 miles away. The issue with exotic foods, which is not just the pollution caused in the transport, but also my body may not be properly adapted to it's nutrition.
• When I graciously receive the food and drinks of my friends because I want to be nice, yet I inadvertently enable their bad habits, and by extension, my own.
• Buying food from supermarkets, cafes, or anywhere that's not out of a farmer's hands. 
• My computer usage, for listening to podcasts, doing internet research, learning new music, taking youtube yoga classes, using the internet-metronome.
• Being up past dark whether at home or playing music with friends, where electricity is utilized to light rooms. Like right now as I write this blog post.
• Borrowing my roommate's car for taking short vacations, for to go on beautiful hikes, or my recent trip to Portland and the Permaculture Convergence. I put bussing around in this category too.

Ok so my list is not terrible. In fact it's pretty darn normal. Yet on the other hand -- none of this is necessary for me to lead a meaningful life. I ought to question: am I making my life less profound while missing out on my fullest capacity, by often mindlessly engaging in these habit-patterns? 

I love how Alexia Allen and her family have been "experimenting" with their food consumption and I feel inspired to create my own experiment. I am not ready to commit to anything for a full year, but I like the idea of finishing my year off a little stronger (it's less than three months after all). Do I have what it takes to deal with my consumption addictions? 

Between October 7, 2017 - December 31, 2017 I commit to:

1. No more buying coffee. I can drink tea. I can use up all the bulk teas I have purchased in the past year that are sitting on the shelf. I can plant a Camelia sinensis in the front yard. I'll have my last cup of coffee tomorrow morning to celebrate! (Does that just show how deep the addiction runs?)
2. Boycotting supermarkets; buying food only from Farmers Markets, where I can trace the source. Otherwise the food is coming from my garden, client gardens, or wildcrafted by my own hands. The important thing is that I know the source. Yes this means foregoing a lot of food I might want, and forces creativity (no, it's a good thing!) 
3. No more hanging out late in bars; socialize during the day. This will be hard given that I live in a party house of musicians, and that I love a good night at the bar playing music with friends. But it also means more practice time, and getting to bed at a reasonable hour. Perhaps my last party until the end of the year is tomorrow night, for a friend's birthday. Perhaps instead of parties I can have meaningful one on one visits.
4. Severely curtailing my internet usage. I have sheet music, I have a mechanically operated metronome, and I have my own inner teacher. I don't need YouTube yoga videos nor Buddhist podcasts. I do have a couple gigs to prepare for and an independent study in Integrated Pest Management, as well as an online Permaculture Design Course (PDC) -- that definitely requires internet research. But if I only allow myself one hour a day, perhaps I will be more "productive". I'm not sure how to handle the Thursday night band practices though.
5. Stop staying up late; rest easy. Perhaps if I absolutely must be up late I can utilize candles. There is something deeply nourishing about the idea of going to bed with the sun, though.

I don't know what is going to happen for me in the next few months.This experiment will be around the same duration that I spend doing the online PDC. With permaculture ethics in my face constantly there is a great chance I will succeed with this experiment. It will be interesting to see where I end up by the end of the year, given that I plan to leave Seattle on January 13, 2018 - the day after my birthday - to transition into farming. 

Downshifting my consumption habits seems like the best way to transition into becoming more productive as I seek the farming lifestyle in my near future. Stay tuned!

Tree Medicines: Witch-hazel

Personal story: This March I was introduced to a witch hazel in a new client's yard that was not flowering like it had in years past. This prompted me to do some research, and hopefully discover what may be "at the root of the problem". I have found that witch-hazels are generally pest and disease free, which is beautiful. They are striking jewels of the winter and it makes me happy they are generally drought tolerant once established. I learned, however, they appreciate "protection from  frost once sap starts to rise." I wonder then, with the particularly harsh winter we've had, if this tree was suffering from winter damage. That being said, I saw many witch hazels this winter around town with glorious flowering. It is still unclear to me what is happening in my client's yard but I'll keep watching.

Witch-hazel blooming in Washington Park Arboretum, February 2017

Witch-hazel & Yoga: When you look at these flowers, what does it evoke for you? To me it's a question of trying to embody the energy of Witch-hazel.

Tree Pose, standing in front of a Witch-hazel in South Seattle College Arboretum, May 31, 2017

I think of Witch-hazel as being rather stately, open, graceful and strong. Therefore standing poses that strengthen the legs and core, while opening the joints in the arms, shoulders, hips, spine and legs are all very appropriate. In addition, holding the poses for longer, building strength through static holds -- seems ideal. Here is one possible sequence (here I assuming you have some knowledge of yoga to be able to follow along):

Start in Tadasana for several minutes.

Inhaling the energetic essence of Witch-hazel, perhaps an image too.

Exhaling with an awareness of the tight areas throughout your body, releasing them and letting tension melt away.

Open the spine, chest and arms with a vinyasa moving between Tadasana and Uttanasana for several minutes. Each breath corresponding with one movement.

You could continue to warm up with sun salutations if you feel called to do that.

Inhale stepping one leg back into Virabhadrasana II.

Holding for perhaps a minute, reaching out through the inner thighs and arms, continuing to breath.

Continue this pattern of inhaling into new poses, holding for a minute or more: Utthita Parsvokonasana, Utthita Trikonasana.

Inhale opening the body into Utkata Konasana, finding a place of centeredness you can hold for several minutes.

Here you might play with different arm variations while staying very grounded in the lower body, maintaining alignment in the low back and knees. Breathe.

From here inhaling to face the opposite direction to complete Warrior II, Side Angle and Triangle on the other side, utilizing the same pattern of stillness and breath.

Then inhaling back to the center, exhale stepping your feet together, preparing to do some balancing poses, such as Vrksasana. 

Inhale bending one knee and lifting it to your chest, continuing the same pattern of holding poses for some time, while breathing: Garudasana, Utthita Hasta Padangustasana, Natarajasana. 

Don't forget to do both sides. Don't forget to incorporate whatever movements feel natural for you to do in your own body, listening deeply.

Step back into Mountain Pose and recall the energetic image of Witch-hazel, while releasing the breath to normal. Reflect on if you feel any different, and how.

Research

Botanical genus: Hamamelis (H. x intermedia, H. japonica, H. mollis, H. vernalis, H. virginiana) Family: Hamamelidaceae Common names: Witch-hazel; Japanese name: Mansaku, "rich crop" and "earliest flowering" [2]. Origin: China, Europe, Japan, North America. Natural habitat: moist woods and along streams [2]. General description: Deciduous shrub or small tree up to 30'. Leaves are simple, ovate, margins toothed, base oblique, petioles short. Fall foliage yellow, orange, bronze, red. Flowers appear in short, auxiliary clusters before new growth in the spring, fragrant, 4-maris, 2cm, petals linear and crumpled in the bud- kind of look like spiders, yellow, orange, red. The flowers attract butterflies! Fruit is 2-parted with two black seeds that are explosively released when ripe [1]. Slow growing, it takes about six years to flower from seed [5]. Cultural Requirements:  Sun-part shade, moist, acidic soil-woodland conditions [1]; prefers a sandy-loam [5]. Needs a winter chill to achieve full flowering, yet also protection from frost once the sap starts to rise, such as with mulch [2]. Needs summer irrigation, especially to establish young plants [2]. They can become stressed by drought or scorching sun [7]. Zone 5 (although H. vernalis is hardy to zone 4, and H. virginiana is hardy to zone 3) [1]. Propagation: by seed, a specific process of cold and warm stratification followed by scarification; also softwood cuttings may be taken in summer [5]. WSU Extension recommends tip layering over a one year period [7]. Pruning: OSU Extension classifies Witch-hazel as a "tree-like" and recommends light, selective pruning, never removing more than 1/8 of the total leaf surface in one year. Otherwise you may stress them or cause watersprouts [8]. 

Herbal Medicine: Astringent, Hemostatic, Homeopathic, Sedative, Tonic (H. virginiana). Popular ingredient in eye drops, skin creams, ointments and skin tonics; used externally for bruises, sore muscles, varicose veins, hemorrhoids, sore nipples and inflammations [5]. Internally used to treat diarrhea, colitis, dysentery, hemorrhoids, vaginal discharge, excessive menstruation, internal bleeding, prolapsed organs [5]. A homeopathic remedy made from bark is used to treat nosebleeds and varicose veins [5]. Native Americans traditionally made a decoction of twigs and bark for treating cuts and bruises, or as a salve to treat sore eyes [2, 5]. Wildcrafting: bark and twigs are harvested in the spring, and leaves harvested in the summer [5]. Contraindications: Avoid long term use from cancer risk due to high tannin content; avoid during pregnancy and breastfeeding; internal use may cause vomiting and nausea; external use may cause dermititis [5]. Witch-hazel water made from steam distillate does not contain tannins (although is less effective) [5]. Other uses: flowers used in traditional tea ceremonies, and branches used to make rafts, baskets and shelves (Japan); branches used as divining rods by American colonists [2]. The wood is heavy, hard and close-grained [5].

Plant Health Care/Integrated Pest Management: Generally free of insects and diseases [1], however there may be some associated problems in special cases. Abiotic problems in Western Washington: as already mentioned, Witch-hazel may become stressed by drought. Although by most accounts, Witch-hazel is considered drought-tolerant once established. Therefore provide supplemental irrigation to young trees, particularly during summer drought. And as already mentioned, Witch-hazel has a low pruning budget, so use a light hand. Biotic problems in Western Washington: Insect problems:Witch-hazel root weevil (Otiorhynchus sulcatus, O. singularis, O. ovatus): small, dark, nocturnal beetles with a snout ("rostrum"), elbowed antennae, slow moving and cannot fly [10]. Upon feeding they leave ragged notches on the edges of leaves or flower petals [4] -- symptoms of pest presence. This type of insect damage is usually considered "aesthetic" and noninjurious to the health of the plant. During the day adult root weevils remain in soil or in debris at the base of the plant [10]. Look for them at night with a flashlight for a clear sign of pest presence [6]. Life cycle: Eggs are laid in soil at the base of the plants 4-6 weeks after the adults have emerged, and one adult female may lay 500 eggs [11]. From eggs they develop into larvae, in the soil, over a period of 2-8 months [11]. The larvae are C-shaped, legless, white-reddish with tan heads, and half an inch long [10]. The larvae overwinter in the soil, form pupae in the spring [11] and emerge as adults in May/June [6]. Pest management: although the adults are merely "aesthetically damaging", larvae can cause more harm by feeding on roots, and may cause girdling [10]. With adults, you can dislodge and capture them into a pitfall trap or simply hand remove them [10]. One cultural control method is to plant cereal cover crop around the base of the tree, because these crops are not a recorded host of root weevils [10]. Also placing oak leaves at the base of the tree may attract ground foraging birds [10]. To manage the larvae, you can apply beneficial nematodes via soil drench (on soils above 52 degrees, in the fall) -- which is a biological control strategy [6]. If cultural, mechanical and biological control strategies don't work, and notched leaves or larval feeding become intolerable -- chemical management is an option. Spray the adults when they first emerge in May/June, or spray larvae in the fall with: acephate, bifenthrin, or cyfluthrin. Be aware that applying chemical pesticides may be just as damaging and therefore counterproductive. Acephate is an organophosphate, target insecticide [12]. It affects the nervous system and is classified as "a possible human carcinogen", while also being "moderately" toxic to birds, "slightly toxic" to amphibians and fish, and "highly toxic" to bees/beneficial insects [12]. It's half life ranges from 4.5-32 days [12]. Bifenthrin is also an insecticide that affects the nervous system; it is derived from pyrethrin, which comes from chrysanthemum flowers [13]. It is also classified as a "possible human carcinogen" and is "highly toxic" to fish and bees [13]. Cyfluthrin is also in the pyrethroid family [14]. It has a high risk of run-off and is highly toxic to bees [14]. For organic chemical control you can use: Beauveria bassiana, or azadirachtin neem extract [10].  Beauveria bassiana (Bb)is considered an "environmentally friendly mycoinsecticide" - a fungi that infects insects. The sexual stage has been identified as Cordyceps bassiana [15]. It has a wide host range of over 700 species [15]! In China, approximately one million hectares a year are treated with Bb to control forest insects [15]. Neem oil has been used for hundreds of years to control pests and diseases; Azadirachtin is the most active component [16]. It reduces insect feeding and acts as a repellent. It also interferes with insect hormone systems, making it harder for insects to grow and lay eggs [16]. Although neem oil is made of fatty acids, essential oils and other substances that are commonly eaten in a normal diet, Azadirachtin can be very irritating to the skin and stomach [16]. Azadirachtin has a half life in soil from 3 - 44 days [16]. By comparison to the other chemical options, Azadirachtin is nontoxic to birds and bees, and "slightly toxic" to fish [16]. Disease problems: Witch-hazel may be a host for Phytophthera ramorum, which causes symptoms of "Sudden Oak Death"[3], cankers, leaf blights and shoot dieback - depending on the species [9]. It is a "fungus-like" spore-producing plant pathogen related to algae [17]. Life cycle: P. ramorum thrives in cool, moist areas and primarily acts as a leaf pathogen [17] as compared to other Phytophthera that are soil dwelling [17]. It is vectored through through water, wind-driven rain, plant material, or human activity [17]. Trees growing in a mixed woodland or forest environment seem more likely to become infected by P. ramorum  than plants in a residential setting [17]. Because P. ramorum is rarely fatal to non-Oak hosts (like Witch-hazel), the disease is sometimes referred to as Ramorum blight [17]. If there is a concern for Phytophthera, note that proper identification of P. ramorum requires lab work (although even in a lab it can be difficult to detect) and may require sensitive molecular techniques to detect DNA [9]. You can send in foliar samples to a lab, collecting 10 symptomatic leaves [17]. Disease management: Once P. ramorum infects plants, there is no cure [17]. therefore prevention is the best medicine. Be careful when buying new plants from a nursery - inspect the leaves for symptoms, or if you are really concerned, you can quarantine your plant for 8 weeks in a moist environment to see if symptoms develop [17]. In general, avoid over-irrigation or planting in poorly draining sites [9] because the organisms are only active at or above field capacity. Similarly avoid situating Witch-hazels near plants that need more irrigation [9] so they aren't unnecessarily irrigated. Although common sense, avoid planting in a site where the soil is already contaminated with P. ramorum. However if the ground is already contaminated you can solarize the soil, apply steam heat for thirty minutes, or apply fertilizer regimes to reduce pH - although if there are surrounding plants, you must simultaneously apply foliar fertilizers to make up for the root uptake loss (9). It might be wise to alter the soil conditions like that only in cases of complete renovation where there are not existing plants. Another preventative measure for the very concerned is to apply the phosphonate fungicide, Agri-Fos - which is really only recommended for high value Oak trees, and only if infected host plants are nearby [17]. Booster treatments must be made every 1-2 years [17]. An alternative is to plant Witch-hazels with plants that are reportedly resistant to P. ramorum such as some cultivars of rhododendron and Douglas fir [9]. Again, if you have any concerns for Phytophthera in your landscape, you might be less concerned for your Witch-hazel, and more concerned with any Oak trees.  This is because P. ramorum acts as a blight on Witch-hazel, so the damage is more aesthetic in nature. Other problems: WSU Extension recommends protecting very young trees from browsing deer by constructing barriers [7].

Additional notes: H. x intermedia is a hybrid between H. japonica and H. mollis [2]. There are more than a hundred cultivars today [2].

Bibliography:
[1] "Hamamelis." OSU Landscape Plants, May 9, 2017. https://oregonstate.edu/dept/ldplants/2plants.htm#hamamelis
[2] Nickel, Earl. "Witch Hazel: Queen of Winter." Pacific Horticulture. October 2008. May 9, 2017. http://www.pacifichorticulture.org/articles/witch-hazel-queen-of-winter/
[3] "APHIS List of Regulated Hosts and Plants Proven or Associated with Phytophthora ramorum." Pacific Northwest Plant Disease Management Handbook. January 2005. May 9, 2017. https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/pathogen-articles/pathogens-common-many-plants/oomycetes/aphis-list-regulated-hosts
[4] "Witch-hazel (Hamamelis)- Root Weevil." Pacific Northwest Handbooks. May 9, 2017. https://pnwhandbooks.org/insect/hort/landscape/hosts-pests-landscape-plants/witch-hazel-hamamelis-root-weevil
[5] L. "Hamamelis virginiana." Plants for a Future. May 9, 2017. http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Hamamelis+virginiana
[6] "Common Insects, Mites & Vertebrates: Root Weevils." WSU Hortsense. April 30, 2013. May 15, 2017. http://hortsense.cahnrs.wsu.edu/Public/FactsheetWeb.aspx?ProblemId=6026
[7] "Witchhazels." WSU Extension. Mar 23, 2002. May 20, 2017. http://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/wp-content/uploads/sites/29/.../03-24-02-Witchhazels.doc
[8] "Pruning Basics." OSU Extension. 2012. May 20, 2017. http://http://extension.oregonstate.edu/linn/sites/default/files/pruning_pub_handout2012.pdf
[9] "Diagnosis and Control of Phytophthera Diseases." Pacific Northwest Plant Disease Management Handbook. May 20, 2017. https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/pathogen-articles/common/oomycetes/diagnosis-control-phytophthora-diseases
[10] "Landscape Pests: Root Weevil." Pacific Northwest Plant Pest Management Handbook. May 20, 2017. https://pnwhandbooks.org/insect/hort/landscape/common/landscape-root-weevil
[11] "Seasonal development and life cycle - weevils." UC IPM. May 22, 2017. http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/INVERT/LIFECYCLES/lcblvineweevil.html
[12] Christiansen, A.; Gervais, J.; Buhl, K.; Stone, D. 2011. Acephate General Fact Sheet; National Pesticide Information Center, Oregon State University Extension Services. http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/acephagen.html.
[13] Johnson, M.; Luukinen, B.; Gervais, J.; Buhl, K.; Stone, D. 2010. Bifenthrin General Fact Sheet; National Pesticide Information Center, Oregon State University Extension Services. http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/bifgen.html.
[14] "Active ingredient: Cyfluthrin." UC IPM: Pesticide Information. May 22, 2017. http://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/PNAI/pnaishow.php?id=25

[15]

Guohua Xiao

, Sheng-Hua Ying

, Peng Zheng

, Zheng-Liang Wang

, Siwei Zhang

, Xue-Qin Xie

, Yanfang Shang

, Raymond J. St. Leger

, Guo-Ping Zhao

, Chengshu Wang

 & Ming-Guang Feng. "

Genomic perspectives on the evolution of fungal entomopathogenicity in Beauveria bassiana." Scientific Reports 2, Article number: 483. July 2, 2012. May 23, 2017. https://www.nature.com/articles/srep00483

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